Houlbergs Vinblog | MM5 2021 93/100
The English Version Down Below:
Ma’d Moser er et vildt spændende projekt skabt mellem Károly Kovács’ innovative, ungarske vinhus Szent Tamás Szőlőbirtok és Pincésze – der populært kaldes Mád Winery, da vinhuset ligger i byen Mád og laver en række vine under brandet Mád – og den østrigske innovative vinmager Lenz Moser. Vi starter her med at smage en 2021 Dry Furmint MM5.
Lenz Moser er en travl og initiativrig herre, som har indgået flere joint-venture projekter … seneste har jeg bl.a. smagt en vin fra hans fabelagtige projekt LenzMark, hvor han laver vine sammen med en anden dygtig østrigsk vinmager Markus Huber. Derfra har jeg fx smagt den imponerende 2020 New Chapter Grüner Veltliner.
Laurenz Maria Moser V aka Lenz Moser har, siden han var 14 år, haft en stor kærlighed for Ungarn og specielt Tokaj området, for hans far tog ham ofte med på forretninger i Ungarn.
Via et nyt besøg i landet for nogle år tilbage – sammen med den ungarsk fødte Rita Takaro, som er DipWSET, bosiddende i Østrig og specialist i ungarske vine – hvor de tog rundt i vinregionerne, så besluttede de at starte et projekt i Tokaj.
Dér fandt de en god partner i Karoly Kovacs og hans fremragende vinmager Gabor Urban, der som nævnt samen driver Mád Winery i Mád, De indgik derfor i 2021 et samarbejde i projektet Ma’d Moser.
Deres fælles mål er at bringe verdenen en spændende og ny fortolkning af tør Furmint fra en af verdens store – men glemte – vinregioner. Vinene på Furmint skal vise friskhed, stor kompleksitet og struktur med en unik individuel karakter.
Jeg har tidligere smagt et par vine fra Károly Kovács’ vinhus Szent Tamás Szőlőbirtok és Pincésze aka Mád Winery, nemlig 2014 Mád Hárslevelű og 2014 Mád Furmint.
Jeg har også smagt masser af vine fra Lenz Mosers østrigske vinhus, der heder Laurenz V. Lenz’s rigtige navn er egentlig Laurenz Maria Moser V, hvor V’et er romertallet for 5, idet Larenz Maria Moser er 5. generation Laurenz Maria Moser, og han kommer således fra en familie, som i mere end 150 år drev en vingård af samme navn, nemlig Weinkelleri Lenz Moser i Østrig.
Jeg har således tidligere smagt en 2012 Forbidden Grüner og en 2012 Singing Grüner Veltliner. Du kan i øvrigt læse meget mere om Lenz i disse blogindlæg.
Nu kigger vi så nærmere på denne 2021 Dry Furmint MM5, der er lavet på 100% Furmint, som er selekteret fra vulkanske topmarker omkring Mád. Et ekstra lavt høstudbytte medvirker til at bringe den mineralmættede karakter helt frem i smagsbilledet.
Efter høsten er druerne afstilket og presset skånsomt efterfulgt af en temperaturstyret gæring i ståltanke med efterfølgende modning på de fine gærrester. 10% af vinen forkæles med lagring på helt nye 300 liters ungarske egetræsfade. Efter aftapningen lagrer vinen nogle måneder inden frigivelse.
What? Har en kalket note suppleret med æbler, pærer, fersken, stikkelsbær, lime, nødder, lidt franskbrød og kan på flere måder minde en smule om champagne uden bobler. Virker også noget olieret i aromaerne.
Smagen er saftig, juicy og med stor bund, har masser af frisk frugt med lemon, grape, stikkelsbær og umoden fersken, hvid peber og så atter den kalkede mineralitet. Der er godt med opkvikkende grape bitterhed og smager herregodt, så 93 point.
Forhandles af Supervin, hvor en flaske koster 219,95 kr., mens prisen er 149,95 kr. ved køb af 6 flasker.
Vinanmeldelse 5,5/7
Ma'd Moser is a wildly exciting project created between Károly Kovács' innovative Hungarian winery Szent Tamás Szőlőbirtok és Pincésze – popularly known as Mád Winery, as the winery is located in the town of Mád and makes a number of wines under the Mád brand – and the Austrian innovative winemaker Lenz Moser. We start here by tasting a 2021 Dry Furmint MM5.
Lenz Moser is a busy and enterprising man who has entered into several joint-venture projects ... recently I have, among other things, tasted a wine from his fabulous project LenzMark, where he makes wines together with another talented Austrian winemaker Markus Huber. From there I have, for example, tasted the impressive 2020 New Chapter Grüner Veltliner.
Since he was 14, Laurenz Maria Moser V aka Lenz Moser has had a great love for Hungary and especially the Tokaj area, because his father often took him on business trips to Hungary.
Via a new visit to the country a few years ago – together with the Hungarian-born Rita Takaro, who is DipWSET, resident in Austria and specialist in Hungarian wines – where they toured the wine regions, they decided to start a project in Tokaj.
There they found a good partner in Karoly Kovacs and his excellent winemaker Gabor Urban, who, as mentioned, together run the Mád Winery in Mád. They therefore entered into a collaboration in the Ma'd Moser project in 2021.
Their common goal is to bring the world an exciting and new interpretation of dry Furmint from one of the world's great – but forgotten – wine regions. The wines at Furmint must show freshness, great complexity and structure with a unique individual character.
I have previously tasted a couple of wines from Károly Kovács' winery Szent Tamás Szőlőbirtok és Pincésze aka Mád Winery, namely 2014 Mád Hárslevelű and 2014 Mád Furmint.
I have also tasted lots of wines from Lenz Moser's Austrian winery, which is called Laurenz V. Lenz's real name is actually Laurenz Maria Moser V, where the V is the Roman numeral for 5, as Larenz Maria Moser is the 5th generation Laurenz Maria Moser, and he thus comes from a family that for more than 150 years ran a winery of the same name, namely Weinkelleri Lenz Moser in Austria. I have thus previously tasted a 2012 Forbidden Grüner and a 2012 Singing Grüner Veltliner. You can also read a lot more about Lenz in these blog posts.
Now we take a closer look at this 2021 Dry Furmint MM5, which is made from 100% Furmint, which is selected from volcanic top fields around Mád. An extra low harvest yield helps to bring the mineral-saturated character to the fore in the taste.
After the harvest, the grapes are de-stemmed and pressed gently, followed by a temperature-controlled fermentation in steel tanks with subsequent maturation on the fine yeast residues. 10% of the wine is aged in brand new 300 liter Hungarian oak barrels. After bottling, the wine ages for a few months before release.
What? Has a chalky note complemented by apples, pears, peaches, gooseberries, lime, nuts, a bit of French bread and can in several ways remind a bit of champagne without bubbles. Also seems somewhat oily in the aromas.
The taste is juicy, juicy and with a large base, has lots of fresh fruit with lemon, grape, gooseberry and unripe peach, white pepper and then again the chalky minerality. There is good invigorating grape bitterness and it tastes great, so 93 points.
Sold by Supervin, where a bottle costs DKK 219.95, while the price is DKK 149.95 when buying 6 bottles.
Wine review 5.5/7
